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paul
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What is the procedure for removing and replacing the rear axle?

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What is the torque spec for the rear axle bearing on a 1985 ford e-350 dual wheel van?

Edited by: Jeff Suovanen ( )

paul exactly which bearing are we talking about?

oldturkey03,

Well, Old turkey, I have once again turned my attention to this axle delima. By the way I really appreciate you responding to my initial question. And I appologize for what may have appeared rude by not returning a response to your willingness to be helpful. My goal is to remove the brake drum/axle hub unit. (they are bolted together, from what I have learned, and the hub and drum must be removed together) At this point I have removed the 8 hub nuts and removed the full floating axle. Now I am faced with the removal of a large nut inside the housing. What I see does not have a typical hex shape with sharp shoulders. If you are familiar with a rather long sine wave you may be able to visualize the outer portion of the nut. Is this a special kind of nut that requires a special kind of socket? I'm stumped! Any advise would be greatly appreciated......Paul... If you have some info mabey you would be willing to E-mail it to me, because I may never find this site again. My e-mail add is paulpep68@yahoo.com

paul,

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oldturkey03
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paul, nor exactly sure which torque spec you need for which bearing. The torque spec on 14 bolt hubs is 50 ft/lbs

UPDATE,

paul, take a look at this and see if that is the right procedure for your axle. also, Google the Special tools and take a look at those and see if they will fit.

Set the parking brake and loosen the axle shaft bolts.

Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the axle is parallel with the floor.

Remove the wheels.

Remove the brake drums.

Remove the axle shaft bolts.

Remove the axle shaft and discard the gaskets.

With the axle shaft removed, remove the gasket from the axle shaft flange studs.

Install Hub Wrench T85T-4252-AH, or equivalent, so that the drive tangs on the tool engage the slots in the hub nut.

The hub nuts are right-hand thread on the right hub and left-hand thread on the left hub. The hub nuts should be stamped RH and LH. Never use power or impact tools on these nuts! The nuts will ratchet during removal.

Remove the hub nut.

Install step plate adapter tool D80L-630-7, or equivalent, in the hub.

Install puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent and loosen the hub to the point of removal. Remove the puller and step plate.

Remove the hub, taking care to catch the outer bearing as the hub comes off.

Install the hub in a soft-jawed vise and pry out the hub seal.

Lift out the inner bearing.

Drive out the inner and outer bearing races with a drift.

Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.

Wash the bearing races and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear. Replace any bearing and race that appears in any way damaged. Always replace the bearings and races as a set.

Coat the race bores with a light coat of clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease and drive the races squarely into the bores until they are fully seated. A good indication that the race is seated is when you notice the grease from the bore squashing out under the race when it contact the shoulder. Another indication is a definite change in the metallic tone when you seat the race. Just be very careful to avoid damaging the bearing surface of the race!

Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined in for the front wheel bearings on 2-Wheel Drive trucks.

Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub.

When installing the new seal, the words OIL SIDE must go inwards towards the bearing!

Place the seal squarely in the hub and drive it into place. The best tool for the job is a seal driver such as T85T-1175-AH, which will stop when the seal is at the proper depth.If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, a new seal must be installed.

Clean the spindle thoroughly. If the spindle is excessively pitted, damaged or has a predominately bluish tint (from overheating), it must be replaced.

Coat the spindle with 80W/90 oil.

Pack the hub with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease.

Pack the outer bearing with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease in the same manner as you packed the inner bearing.

Place the outer bearing in the hub and install the hub and bearing together on the spindle.

Install the hub nut on the spindle. Make sure that the nut tab is located in the keyway prior to thread engagement. Turn the hub nut onto the threads as far as you can by hand, noting the thread direction.

Install the hub wrench tool and tighten the nut to 55-65 ft. lbs. (75-88 Nm). Rotate the hub occasionally during nut tightening.

Ratchet the nut back 5 teeth. Make sure that you hear 5 clicks!

Inspect the axle shaft O-ring seal and replace it if it looks at all bad.

Install the axle shaft.

Coat the axle shaft bolt threads with waterproof seal and install them by hand until they seat. Do not tighten them with a wrench at this time!

Check the diameter across the center of the brake shoes. Check the diameter of the brake drum. Adjust the brake shoes so that their diameter is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the drum diameter.

Install the brake drum

Install the wheel.

Loosen the differential filler plug. If lubricant starts to run out, retighten the plug. If not, remove the plug and fill the housing with 80W/90 gear oil.

Lower the truck to the floor.

Tighten the wheel lugs to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm).

Now tighten the axle shaft bolts. Torque them to 60-80 ft. lbs. (81-108 Nm). Instructions are from here.

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Edited by: oldturkey03 ( )

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