Already tried putting a pipe on it, didn't work. And tried clogging it up with tires and golf balls, didn't work.

Now trying to pump fluids and heavy mud into it to stop the flow, but no idea if that will work.

Any suggestions are welcome as this is becoming a major problem.

Please call: (281) 366-5511 if you have a good suggestion.

I don't have a picture, but I do have a webcam.

If we can figure out how to stop this thing we'll all be famous, so any ideas?

Update

Pumping mud into it didn't work, now trying to put another tube on it?

Update #2

now trying to put a THIRD dome over it...

Update #3

Okay new complication, a ^^*# robot that was supposed to be sawing off a pipe is stuck in there now.

Update #4

So now a key pipe has been cut, hopefully this makes things easier

Update #5

So now there are some giant underwater plumes appearing, some as large as Rhode Island.

Any ideas on how to clear those up?

⟐ Answered June 17, 2012 at 5:55 am -0700

⟐ Commented June 17, 2012 at 8:20 am -0700

⟐ Answer edited May 14, 2013 at 2:52 am -0700

⟐ Answered May 6, 2013 at 8:43 pm -0700

⟐ Answered February 4, 2013 at 1:32 pm -0700

So what do you suggest? What has worked for you in the past?

⟐ Answered August 22, 2012 at 2:18 pm -0700

After five years of use and abuse, my old PowerBook is showing its age. The DVD drive, main battery, and the PRAM battery are dead; and the LCD backlight, latch, and hinge are failing.

Because I can't justify the cost of the replacement battery and such, and due to the damaged LCD panel and hinge, I plan to use it as a small desktop Mac, with an external display, keyboard/mouse, and DVD drive attached. To prevent overheating, I would like to remove the LCD panel entirely. This way, I can simply place the "headless PowerBook" upright in a stand, behind an external 17" LCD monitor I have - a sort of "DIY iMac".

However, once I pull the LCD panel assembly out (Via this tutorial) is there anything I need to do to operate it safely without the panel? For example, do I need to make a cover for the back of the computer? What do I do with the monitor data and grounding cable?

Thanks for any tips!

⟐ Answer deleted March 15, 2013 at 3:56 am -0700

For the last six months or so, the sturdy machine has had intermittent narcolepsy: it goes to sleep on its own, with no provocation, whether plugged into AC power or not. The behaviour started with a dying battery, but I'm running on a brand-new one now.

I haven't cared about the issue so much up to now— it only happened once a day or so, and the computer's brief naps gave me a good excuse to go stretch. But today, it's gone to sleep three times thus far and shut off with no warning twice. It's been plugged into an 85W AC adapter the whole time.

This issue may be similar to Random MacBook Pro shut down, but we never saw a resolution on that.

Symptoms

• Goes to sleep randomly a couple times a day, with ever-increasing frequency
• Loses power, even while plugged into AC with new battery

Attempted solutions

• Tried at least three batteries, including new battery
• Used multiple 85W power adapters
• Reproduced issue at multiple locations, so it's not the mains power.
• Removed ambient light sensor.
• Installed known-good ambient light sensor.
• Removed sleep sensor.

Update

When it shut off on me today, it was plugged into power (glowing amber) and my battery was at about 80%. Started it back up, ran for about 5 minutes, then shut off again. Since then, it's been working fine. The computer hadn't been running much yet and wasn't warm, so it's not a heat issue.

Update 2

Today, it started shutting off within 2 minutes of boot. I'm typing this on another machine. Taking it apart now; I'll start swapping components.

Update 3

It's not the ambient light sensor or the sleep sensor (tested known-good parts on both). I swapped in a new upper case an hour ago, and it hasn't shut off since. I'm crossing my fingers, but not overly-optimistic yet.

Final Update

Some things just can't be fixed! I hate to say it, but I was forced to give up on this machine and upgrade. We parted out the old machine, so it didn't end up in the dump, but I never did figure out what the problem was.

Sometimes, with the tremendous technical complexity of these machines, you have to put the problem down to something at the board-level. I'm pretty confident replacing the main board would have fixed it (I tried everything else that made sense), but at that point I was better off recycling the machine and upgrading. Thanks for all the help with the issue!

⟐ Answer accepted April 18, 2012 at 6:52 pm -0700

This bucket-kicking was not preceded by a dropping accident, extreme temperature, nor battery run-down – just a sudden "F#ck you! I'm not going to work anymore!"

I've tried to charge it (multiple times) for multiple hours, tried to reset it multiple times (and, yeah, I know the drill), but nothing. Absolutifactually nothing.

Question: should I simply give up? #$^#, I hate throwing stuff into the e-landfill if it's fixable, but this iPod has all the hallmarks of a hardware failure that might not be recoverable.

Any suggestions?

⟐ Answered February 11, 2012 at 6:29 am -0700

Do I just ignore it? Can I?

This is the SSD that I ordered: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as...

I am currently booting off that SSD, which is connected via USB 2.0, and I believe that its being bottlenecked by USB 2.0.

⟐ Commented May 11, 2013 at 10:39 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 2, 2013 at 7:16 am -0700

I was using it to browse the web when the scrollball stopped scrolling down. It can still go up, left and right but when I scroll down it goes down and spins but there isn't the usual clicking noise and it doesn't do anything on-screen.

Can I fix it at all?

⟐ Answered December 29, 2012 at 1:46 am -0700

I recently bought a solar panel(Solar Gorilla), but to use it with my MacBook I need to fork out a large sum for the adapters. I have an old magsafe adapter, and several connector tips. Can I somehow connect the magsafe plug to a tip and get power without spending money?

Any help would be welcome!

Hazel

⟐ Answer deleted October 21, 2012 at 8:48 am -0700

I was wondering if it's possible to connect 4 hard drives through a SATA port multiplier plugged to the SATA port instead of the superdrive...

Does anyone know if there is an intel mac mini that supports this technology? (I looked for the developer notes, but the most recent I found was of the G4 mac mini...)

I asked this question also on apple support forum, but had no reply...

The space in the case is not a problem because i was thinking about putting the mac mini components into another (DIY) case in which i can also insert 5 Hard Drives (one for the system and four on raid 5 for datas)...

Thank you in advance

Matteo

⟐ Answered July 30, 2011 at 10:42 am -0700

How should I go about repairing them?

⟐ Answered April 22, 2013 at 8:59 pm -0700

⟐ Commented September 16, 2012 at 11:38 am -0700

⟐ Commented February 13, 2012 at 1:02 pm -0700

Apple has a nice page up with tips for notebooks, iPod, and the iPhone. What techniques work best for you?

My best tip? I found BashFlash a couple weeks ago, and it's made a HUGE difference in my battery life. My machine doesn't run nearly as hot, either.

⟐ Answer deleted March 14, 2013 at 7:06 pm -0700

I'm very interested to learn, so I'm wondering, is anyone aware of resources for doing this kind of thing? I'm assuming it involves soldering, chip replacement, and some pretty hardcore electronics knowledge. I've asked people who do this for a living, but for obvious reasons they don't seem too interested in divulging the info.

Thanks!

⟐ Answered March 4, 2013 at 3:41 am -0700

Hey guys

I have got an iPhone that i have just repaired (very badly damaged digitiser/LCD) and during testing i have realised the camera function has stopped working. When i open up the camera app, the rear camera loads and works, however when i switch to the front camera, the "retina" stays closed and the "camera-video" switch on the bottom right starts to flicker.

After that happens i am totally unable to use the camera function unless I disconnect the battery completely and reset the iPhone. This isn't the first iPhone this has happened to. It is not a firmware issue as i have restored it several times, and i am also aware that due to the iPhone being damaged this could also be the cause. Just want to know if there is a fix for this issue?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Update - I have reset the iPhone for the second time and now the camera does not work full stop. fun times.

Update 2 - I have restored with custom firmware, opened up camera app, rear camera works however once i switched to the front camera it decided to **** itself again.

Update 3 - Just realised that it is still under warranty so I will get the person to take the phone to apple to get it replaced for free.

Update 4 - Just got back from the Apple store, had to wait 20 mins and a brand new iPhone was sitting in my pocket :)

Summary

For any issues with anything regarding a firmware issue the first things to do is to restore (custom and iTunes firmware). After you have done that and the issue has not been resolved you should move to part replacement (if it is regarding the camera app not functioning properly or a similar issue). If you have replaced the part up to three times and it is still not working (yes it is necessary to replace up to three times, sometimes you will replace a faulty part with another faulty part, the glories of technology) then you will have to assume the logic board has been damaged in some way.

Resolution

Take back to apple and let them deal with it :) Because the genius's at the genius bar's are so short on time they physically do not have the time to open up the iPhone and check to see if it has been tampered with. All they will do is check the liquid indicator and if it has not been set off and the fault still purists with them then you will get a replacement no questions asked.

⟐ Answered February 15, 2013 at 4:55 pm -0700

⟐ Answer deleted January 30, 2013 at 1:32 pm -0700

⟐ Answer deleted January 29, 2013 at 7:14 pm -0700

Ceramics - sharpening professionally is $$$$

⟐ Commented March 22, 2012 at 11:07 am -0700

This is what I have tried:

• replace with other RAM
• unplug drives
• Reset nvram like in this article. The problem is then that I have problems getting to OpenFirmware. Sometimes I am able to but when I get to the OF screen there is no reaction from typing. I can i.ex. type the first line but then there is no response from the keyboard. The keyboard is plugged directly into the USB port.

*

I got hold of the Apple Service Source Manual for Quad G5. (Let me know if someone needs that!) and just getting to the cooling and the power supply seems a bit tricky. So I read about this Apple power supply exchange (http://www.apple.com/support/powermac/po...) and am trying for that first. So it seems from the LED light that the CPUs are overheated and that could be related to the power supply going bad. I will post results of my shot at Apple.

• UPDATE - THINK I MAY GIVE UP **

I took the machine to an Apple service center and they confirmed it was the processors gone bad. Of course this has to do with the cooling failed. Still I was not able to get a warranty repair even if I showed them the extended powersupply article and the article about the cooland leak. They said the machine was too old. They did offer me to fix the machine for about $1300. Since this is 2 machines with same error and since I have 16GB of RAM invested in each one just before this all happened, I might just have to accept the offer. Any comments?

⟐ Answered March 25, 2011 at 9:25 am -0700

I know iFixit sells nice tools for this—and i have used them!— but i have had a real problem opening some of these iPods.

Has anyone come up with any real good alternative to the plastic tools? The thing is that some of the inner metal fingers that are part of the metal back JUST WILL NOT RELEASE, and i end up bending things seriously or breaking completely thru the plastic notches.

Just askin'? Thanks.

⟐ Answer edited January 21, 2011 at 3:49 pm -0700

⟐ Answer deleted May 22, 2013 at 10:59 pm -0700

⟐ Commented May 20, 2013 at 11:27 am -0700

iPhone 3G loses signal randomly and for no obvious reason, everything else works just fine.

Circumstances:

• Until a few days ago the phone has never been dropped. Then it was dropped from about 1 meter, twice...
• The phone is just over 1 year old

Tried:

• Waiting
  • Nothing..
• Rebooting
  • Brings service back for a while
• Activating and deactivating flight mode
  • Brings service back for a while
• Re-seating sim-card
  • Brought back service initially, but didn't solve problem

Theories

1. Loose cable?
   • I don't see how that fits in. I mean, re-booting gets the service back. If it was a loose cable it shouldn't help to re-boot..
2. ??
3. My observations indicate that the phone is only ever on 3G network. Could the problem be in or around the UMTS chip?
   • Considering logic board replacement or contacting someone doing BGA soldering.

Update 1

Yesterday I changed the whole dock assembly to see if that could fix the problem.

Today it lost connection again. So it didn't work.

Now I'm considering to get a new iPhone or doing a logicboard replacement on this one.. Also I could find someone local that does BGA soldering and ask them to find the chip that has to be loose on the logicboard...

Either that or I'll decide that I can't afford it because I just bought an iPad....

I also added a third theory.

Either way, thanks again for all your help and comments!

⟐ Answered April 12, 2013 at 6:05 pm -0700

When I turn it on you can hear it come on and see the white light on the front come on and the keyboard light up.but the video screen doesn't come on at all or the apple logo on the backside.

I connected it to an external monitor and it happens to work perfectly. I opened it the other day and no wires were torn either. My question is what can i do to get it fixed and where and a estimate would be nice because if it cost too much I'm just gonna get rid of it.

I will upload pictures later if needed. Thanks in advance.

BTW I Just turned it on now and I noticed is said airport is not installed. when in fact i use to always use it wireless.

Update 2 - I uploaded the pictures so u can see the damage.i took the lcd off the computer so now i have two halves. as u can see there wwere no broken wires to the mother board and i cant tell internally if anything is broken behind the screen because i dont own the suction cups or the heat gun to remove it and see. but im open to any suggestions

Update

Thanks to everybody that contributed. i finally took the glass bezel off,the lcd itself and one ribbon cable was disconected and the ribbon cable on the right side was broken completely. can anybody point me in the right direction of buying a whole lcd with the bezel and aluminum part with hinges and cable. thanks

Update

I fixed it finally today . i just bought a whole lcd assembly from ebay for 385 . followed the tutorial from here to the t . now its working perfectly

⟐ Answer deleted March 25, 2013 at 8:39 am -0700

⟐ Commented January 26, 2013 at 4:45 am -0700

My first thought is that this machine may have the Nvidia GPU issue, because it is within the range of machines that could potentially have the issue, and that issue is becoming more prevalent in general. However, I've dealt with many of those machines, and they usually do chime and act as if they are working, aside from the black screen, whereas this one goes into the odd mode I've described above, with no chime. There is no external video when it's in this mode, but external video works fine when the machine is working.

Does anyone have any ideas, and does anyone have an opinion as to whether or not this could still be the Nvidia issue? My next step is to replace the DC-in board, but if it seems likely to be the Nvidia issue I'll take it to the Apple store instead (because it's within the 4 year window, and they would replace the board if it qualifies).

Thanks!

John

⟐ Commented November 12, 2012 at 10:24 am -0700

⟐ Answered September 19, 2012 at 5:18 am -0700

I took the computer apart entirely and cleaned up all the coffee I could using 91% isopropyl alcohol. After reassembly, I tried to power it on, but it was no good. The MagSafe light would not illuminate when any power adapter was connected and the logic smelled a bit like burned plastic, so I determined it was a dead.

I purchased a used, working logic board on eBay a few days ago and transplanted that into a separate MacBook Core Duo that I obtained from my brother using the iFixIt repair guides. His logic board had died of natural causes and none of the internals had ever come into contact with fluids, so they were fully operational. The only internal component I used from the MacBook that had coffee spilled on it was the hard drive, but it was not damaged and was tested in an external enclosure, so it too was operational.

I finished reinstalling all the internal components today connected the MagSafe adapter. The light on the adapter came on this time and the battery indicator lights are blinking and rising, so the logic board is receiving power. Upon power up, the optical drive sounded, but it just kept cycling. I didn't hear the fans power up and all is silent, but the cycling optical drive. So I'm not sure what problem there may be now. Could someone provide some insight given the symptoms I've described? Let me know if you need to know more. Thank you so much, indispensable iFixIt community!

Update - 11/5/10 Repair Log

After trying all the suggestions that rdklinc provided, I compiled a log of my results in order to see if this issue could be further diagnosed. Here it is:

When powered on, the MacBook's optical drive and hard drive fire up, but the sleep light comes on immediately and stays steadily lit. No start up sound is heard and the display remains black.

Display

The display I reinstalled is fully functional and there is no faint image on the screen. I have also connected a second fully functional display (see photo below) from another MacBook and still nothing comes up. This may rule out a bad display or inverter cable.

Resetting PMU/SMC

When resetting PMU/SMC, the sleep light would flicker, but no tone was heard after any reconfiguration.

Resetting PRAM

I reset the PRAM, but nothing happened.

Reseat RAM

Initially one RAM card seemed improperly seated, but after removing both RAM cards, switching up the configuration, using different cards, and reinstalling the cards properly, nothing happened.

Reseat Internal Connections

I opened the MacBook again, disconnected all internal cables and reconnected them all, making sure they were properly and securely seated.

Disconnecting/Replacing Optical Drive Cable

I replaced the optical drive cable with another. This initially improved the optical drive's cycling issue upon start up and it operated and sounded normally. After trying to start up with the hard drive disconnected, it went back to cycling. This optical drive is known to be fully functional.

Disconnecting Hard Drive

I disconnected the hard drive cable and attempted to start up the MacBook, but the sleep light did not illuminate and the optical drive started cycling again.

Update 11/18/10

I got an email back from the Beta Macs company and a phone call from the rep I was emailing with about the logic board yesterday. They said they tested the board in a different machine and that it worked fine for them. I don't know if something they're doing is different from what I did, but the rep called me to tell me that my issues may be from improperly installing the temp sensors and not using thermal paste during reassembly. I'm certain I did both properly with the aid of iFixIt guides. What do you guys think, could it, in fact, be something on my end? I mean, I've tried all the things you suggested to get it working. Beta Macs has fully refunded me the cost of the logic board and the shipping. I've been thinking about ordering the only 1.83GHz 4-wall logic board that iFixIt has in stock, despite it being $100 more than the previous board that I purchased. I feel like there is a higher degree of functional certainty from iFixIt. What would you guys suggest? Once again, thanks so much for your help! You guys have been incredible.

⟐ Edited August 4, 2012 at 4:53 pm -0700

Update

How do I re-sync the ipod to restore it??

⟐ Answer deleted June 25, 2012 at 8:28 am -0700

This actually isn't a huge problem-- I'm pretty diligent about watching it and getting plugged in before I hit 28%. BUT it would sure be great to get a low battery warning when I hit 38%.

(The ideal solution would actually be to reprogram the battery to think its capacity is accurate, but I don't think that's feasible without accessing its internal electronics.)

⟐ Commented March 26, 2012 at 9:34 am -0700

The incapacity of Lion to allow the functioning of the Power PC applications may be a major problem, the problem is the abandonment of Rosetta. Rosetta allows Power PC apps to run with an Intel processor. Before doing this update, it would be wise to check which applications, which small utilities will not function any more and to benefit from it to do the housekeeping or to find an equivalent with the Intel code of it.

CultOfMac offers a simple solution to track all this software. Make the following command in the terminal:

system_profiler SPApplicationsDataType >~/Desktop/MyFileTypes.txt

It will create on your desk a textual file " MyFileTypes.txt" that will contain all the list of the applications of your computer. Open and do a search for the occurrence " Kind: PowerPC".

All the software that have this label will not function on Lion.

For those who still imperatively need a Power PC application and who want nevertheless to upgrade to Lion, I suggest that they keep a partition Snow Leopard on their machine.

I ran this Terminal command and the list of programs that won't work on my machine was very extensive. Even my Adobe CS 2 won't work. I'll be installing this system on something that doesn't matter. This appears worse than my transition from system 9 and the loss of all those programs collected for so many years. I'm very disappointed with this revelation of Lion.

UPDATE

Lion is not a upgrade only. It will install a full version. I tried burning it onto a DVD but got media errors twice. I moved it to an external firewire drive to move it around. I didn't think it installed at first, it gives you an app that tells you what programs won't run with it. It requires a couple of restarts to install. The install took 22 minutes. It automatically opens migration assistant on the first boot.

To my surprise, migration assistant moved over all the apps that it says won't work so I will have to go in and clean them all out.

⟐ Commented January 19, 2012 at 9:32 pm -0700

Certain keys won't work at all (a,s,e . . . all very necessary) and sometimes a there was a repetitive dinging and as a letter would zip repeatedly across the page.

When I returned home, the computer seems to work just fine as long as I'm using my new bluetooth keyboard and magic mouse.

Is there anything I should do to open it up and clean out any residual stickiness or does it need to go away to a mac hospital for a tuneup?

Thnx!

⟐ Answer deleted August 20, 2010 at 5:19 pm -0700

Fast-forward four months. I decided it would be a stellar idea to create a teardown for the moped, clean the carburetor, and figure out the throttle problem. I managed two of the three (teardown is almost done, and the carb is clean), but to this day I cannot figure out what the heck is wrong with the throttle. Since it's a pretty involved piece of machinery, I created another teardown that described the stuck cable problem in greater detail. Please take a look at it here:

http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Suzuki-FA...

I would love to hear any suggestions you have on how I can fix my Suzie's throttle. I miss riding it.

Update

I have since resolved the stuck throttle problem. After screwing with the throttle for hours, I figured out I've been inserting the cylinder off by 180 degrees.

I was actually about to order another throttle cable online, when I came across a schematic (which I already had in my manual). I glanced at it, and noticed the position of the cylinder in relation to the carburetor. What I found odd was that the notch (which I've seen dozens of times before) was 180 degrees rotated from how I was inserting it...

So I went outside, rotated the cylinder 180 degrees, and presto-blamo the entire cylinder assembly went into the carb about twice as deep as before!

What sucks is that I've tried the cylinder in that position before, but it didn't want to enter the carb in my previous try. I had actually rotated the cylinder multiple times, trying to insert it into the carb, and the only position that I thought worked was the one I was trying all along.

Finally after inserting it correctly, reassembling the throttle handle (I took it apart out of desperation), trying to get the thing started and fine-tuning it for three hours, I managed to go for a ride down the street!

...And then the weather turned inclement and poured rain for a week straight, rendering the moped useless for a while longer...

⟐ Answered May 3, 2010 at 11:18 am -0700

I'll need it because I have to replace my failed (stock) HD [hard disk] with a new, larger one.

Many kind regards, Dave.

⟐ Answer deleted May 13, 2013 at 10:46 pm -0700

Defective CCFL backlight may have the following symptoms: Screen flashes on red/pink and goes off. Picture stays on in red and slowly be come normal. Picture flickering with dim display. Picture flickering on and off. All these symptoms indicate that the LCD backlight lamp (CCFL Lamp) has reached the end of its life.

I'm looking for more information on replacing these. The bulbs are so cheap as compared to a new LED. Has anyone done one of these? Do you have any sources for Apple LEDs? Here is a guide on doing it: http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/troublesho...

Another source: http://www.suburban-electronics.com/ccfl...

We might be able to put together a guide and source page.

Any suggestions or links?

⟐ Edited May 3, 2013 at 10:14 pm -0700

⟐ Answer deleted April 30, 2013 at 11:45 pm -0700

So the question: Is it OK to replace just one CV joint (the inner) on the axle? The outer CV joint is welded to the axle, so replacing it requires buying a new axle but it doesn't seem to be making noise. Will a new inner CV joint cause the old outer CV joint to prematurely fail? I know I'm not the only car geek on Answers.

I ordered a new CV joint because of circumstances I won't go into at this point -- I just want to know if it's worth it to install the new joint or if I should pay the 15+ percent restocking fee and return it.

⟐ Edited April 23, 2013 at 11:47 am -0700

As a whole, what are your best tips and tricks for getting these annoyances out without damaging the machine? I'd love to hear some seasoned answers!

⟐ Answered March 28, 2013 at 4:31 pm -0700

Can't take it off.

PC & Itunes won't recognize it.

Can't update it or reset it.

iPod won't start up, only displays Apple Logo.

Appreciate any help.

THX

Dean

⟐ Answer deleted March 11, 2013 at 5:57 pm -0700

⟐ Answer deleted March 4, 2013 at 11:26 am -0700

⟐ Answered February 24, 2013 at 7:51 am -0700

I'll call this "garden flower repair".

Well it's spring time again and there seem to be very few Mac questions to answer so I'm off to my garden. I found, by accident, that if I plant Petunias and Marigolds in the same bed that the Marigolds die back till mid-August, the same time that the Petunias start fading. So I get a good looking bed till it freezes. What I would like to know is if there are other similar flower pairs, i.e. early bloomers and late bloomers that can be planted at the same time.

UPDATE 5/2/12 After i month of watering everyday

Installing Power Flower Garden flowers

⟐ Edited February 14, 2013 at 3:59 pm -0700

⟐ Commented January 2, 2013 at 4:30 pm -0700

⟐ Answered December 24, 2012 at 11:05 am -0700

Is there anyway to fix this?

⟐ Answer accepted December 18, 2012 at 8:15 pm -0700